How to Fix a Leaky Faucet: Step-by-Step Guide
A comprehensive homeowner-friendly guide to diagnosing and repairing a leaky faucet, covering safety, parts, tools, step-by-step instructions, troubleshooting, and maintenance to stop drips fast.
According to Leak Diagnosis, a leaky faucet is usually fixable with a washer, O-ring, or cartridge replacement rather than a full faucet swap. This quick guide helps you diagnose the leak, pick the right parts, and complete the repair safely in under an hour. By following these steps, homeowners can save water and avoid costly plumber visits.
Understanding why faucets leak
A faucet leak is typically a sign that a moving part has worn, become mis-seated, or corroded. According to Leak Diagnosis, most leaks stem from worn washers or cartridge seals. When the valve seat or gasket deteriorates, water can seep through even with the handle off, wasting water and potentially accelerating mineral buildup around the sink. Recognizing the root cause helps you choose the correct repair path and avoid replacing parts you don’t need. If you’re learning how to fix leaky faucet, start by noting whether the drip comes from the spout, handle, or base, and whether it’s constant or intermittent.
Types of faucets and how leaks differ
There are several common faucet designs: compression (two handles with a washer seal), cartridge (single or two handles with a cartridge), ball (a single handle with a ball-and-sleeve mechanism), and ceramic-disk (two disks). Leaks manifest differently: a drip from the spout often means a worn washer or seat; a handle drip frequently points to a faulty cartridge or O-ring. Identifying the faucet type informs which parts to replace and how to disassemble without damaging finishes. If unsure, photograph the faucet before disassembly and consult a parts diagram for your model.
Safety and prep: shut off the water and get ready
Before touching any fittings, locate and shut off the under-sink valves; if those fail, shut off the main supply. Open the faucet to relieve pressure and drain residual water from the lines. Place towels and a shallow bucket to catch any remaining water. Verify the water is truly off by briefly turning the handle; if water leaks, re-check shut-offs or call a licensed plumber. This safety step prevents splashes, scalding, and messy worksite conditions, especially when you’re working with hot water lines.
Tools and replacement parts you may need
Assemble essential tools: adjustable wrench, Phillips and flat-head screwdrivers, and an Allen key set. Replacement parts include washers, O-rings, or a cartridge kit compatible with your faucet type. Keep a small container for screws and springs, plus plumber’s tape for threaded connections. A flashlight helps you see into tight spaces under the sink, and towels keep the workspace clean. Having a few replacement seals in common sizes speeds up the process and reduces trips to the hardware store.
Step-by-step repair overview
Think of the repair as a simple sequence: access the valve, inspect components, replace worn parts, reassemble, and test. You typically won’t need to replace the whole faucet. Most homes complete a basic repair in about 5–15 minutes per side, depending on faucet type and your experience. Work slowly to avoid dropping small parts, and keep track of screws and springs with a magnetic tray or labeled tray. The goal is to restore a tight seal while preserving the fixture’s finish.
Replacing common wear parts: washers, O-rings, and cartridges
With the handle removed, inspect the stem and valve seat for wear. If the washer shows visible wear, replace it with the correct size. Remove old O-rings and slide on new ones with a touch of lubricant if recommended by the part, ensuring an even seal. For cartridge-type faucets, select the cartridge that matches your model and follow installation instructions to avoid misalignment. Reassemble the handle and test the faucet at low pressure to confirm a drip-free operation.
Reassembling, testing, and tuning for a drip-free finish
Reassemble in reverse order of disassembly, using plumber’s tape on threaded connections where appropriate. Slowly restore water pressure and run hot and cold water to expel debris and verify seals. If a drip persists, recheck the seating, O-rings, and cartridge orientation. After confirming no leaks for several minutes, wipe down the area and ensure everything is snug without over-tightening, which can damage threads or the fixture.
Maintenance and prevention for the long term
To prevent future leaks, perform a quick annual inspection of connections and seals. Replace worn washers or O-rings at the first sign of wear, and avoid harsh chemical cleaners that degrade seals. Consider installing a water-softening system if mineral buildup is a frequent issue in your area. Regularly inspect supply lines under the sink for corrosion and signs of wear, replacing aging lines as needed. A proactive approach saves water and protects your fixtures over time.
Troubleshooting: when to call a pro
If you cannot locate the leak, the drip is behind the wall, or water pools around the base after part replacement, the issue may be a deeper valve-seat problem or pipe damage. In such cases, a licensed plumber can prevent further damage and ensure code-compliant repairs. For complex fixtures or specialty finishes, professional service is often the most economical choice in the long run.
Tools & Materials
- Adjustable wrench(2-6 inch opening for typical fittings)
- Phillips screwdriver(Used for handle screws on many faucets)
- Flathead screwdriver(For set screws or prying caps)
- Allen wrench set(Needed for many cartridge-type handles)
- Replacement washers(Have a few sizes; measure the diameter/thickness)
- Replacement O-rings(Bring old part for size comparison)
- Cartridge kit(Only for cartridge-type faucets; ensure model compatibility)
- Bucket or shallow container(Catch water during disassembly)
- Towels or rags(Keep area dry and clean)
- Plumber's tape (Teflon)(Wrap threads on metal connections)
- Lubricant (silicone grease)(Use only if recommended by parts kit)
- Flashlight(Illuminates tight spaces under sink)
Steps
Estimated time: 45-60 minutes
- 1
Turn off the water supply
Locate the shut-off valves under the sink and close them firmly. If the valves are stiff or inaccessible, shut off the main water supply to prevent water from spraying when you disconnect the faucet. Open the faucet to relieve pressure and confirm water flow has stopped before proceeding.
Tip: Use a bucket to catch any remaining water and keep towels handy. - 2
Remove the faucet handle
Use the appropriate screwdriver or Allen key to remove the handle or cap. Keep track of small screws and caps, and photograph the assembly if possible for reference when reassembling.
Tip: Note the orientation of the handle so you reinstall it correctly. - 3
Inspect the valve components
Examine the washer, O-rings, and cartridge (if present) for wear, cracks, or mineral buildup. If parts show wear, replace them with correctly sized equivalents. Consider replacing multiple seals if wear is evident across components.
Tip: Take a quick photo of the old parts for comparison with replacements. - 4
Install new washers, O-rings, or cartridge
Install the new washer or O-ring in the correct orientation. If replacing a cartridge, follow the manufacturer’s instructions to seat it properly and avoid cross-threading the connection.
Tip: Do not overtighten; snug is enough to seal without damaging parts. - 5
Reassemble the faucet
Return the handle, screws, and any decorative caps to their original positions. Apply plumber’s tape to threaded connections as needed and ensure all components are seated evenly.
Tip: Tighten gradually and evenly to avoid misalignment. - 6
Test for leaks and finalize
Turn the water back on slowly. Run hot and cold water for a few minutes, watching for dripping at joints and seals. If a drip remains, recheck seating and seals, and consider repeating steps with fresh parts.
Tip: Observe for several minutes to catch slow leaks that appear after pressure returns.
Questions & Answers
What causes a faucet to leak at the handle?
Handle leaks are most often caused by a worn cartridge or O-ring, though some older models use a packing nut or stem washer that can wear out. Replacing these parts usually stops the drip. If you’re unsure, check manufacturer diagrams for your faucet type.
Most handle leaks come from a worn cartridge or O-ring; replacing those parts usually fixes it.
Should I replace the washer or cartridge first?
For compression faucets, start with the washer. For cartridge-based faucets, begin with the cartridge. If you’re unsure of your faucet type, inspect the stem area to identify the correct replacement part.
Start with the washer on compression faucets, or the cartridge on cartridge faucets.
Can I fix a faucet without turning off the main water supply?
You should shut off the local under-sink valves before starting any repair. If those valves fail, turn off the main supply. Working with active lines can cause water damage and scalding.
No. Use the local shut-offs first, and only use the main supply if necessary.
How long do replacement parts last?
Lifespan varies by part and use. Washers wear fastest under heavy use; cartridges can last longer but may fail with mineral buildup or improper seating. Inspect parts annually for signs of wear.
Parts wear over time; inspect washers and O-rings regularly.
What if the leak is behind the wall or at a pipe joint?
Leaks behind walls or at joints may indicate a pipe issue or valve seat problem. These situations often require professional assessment to avoid drywall damage and to ensure code compliance.
Leaks behind walls usually need a pro to fix properly.
Should I use plumber’s putty on faucet seals?
Most modern faucet seals use washers, O-rings, or cartridges. Plumber’s putty isn’t typically used for faucet seals and could interfere with seals or finishes. Always follow part-specific guidance.
Plumber’s putty isn’t usually needed for faucet seals.
Main Points
- Turn off water before starting any disassembly
- Replace worn washers or O-rings for most leaks
- Cartridge replacement is common for modern faucets
- Test thoroughly after reassembly to confirm a drip-free fit
- Keep replacement parts organized for a faster repair
